| This is probably the most important
skill in the progressive stage of surfing and it can not be learnt
in just a few sessions in the surf. To catch green waves you must
understand the speed of the wave, your positioning on the wave and
when the wave will peak and start to break. Do not attempt this is
in big surf, dumping waves or crowded waves. Ideally small surf that
crumbles will give you the best results. |
| To introduce you
to catching green waves you should practice surging with the wave.
This is when you will not actually catch the wave but paddle with
it and surge to the edge of the break zone. This will help you understand
the speed of the wave, how much paddling is required and where the
wave will start to break. |
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| First of all you should paddle
out and position yourself beyond the break zone, attempt to sit and
balance on the surfboard while facing out to sea and looking towards
the horizon. Look for lumps on the horizon, these lumps are the "sets"
which contain the waves you will eventually want to catch. Identify
the biggest lump, follow it all the way in as it gains momentum and
builds into an identifiable swell. Watch the swell pass by you, become
a wave and surge all theway to the break zone where it peaks and then
breaks. |
| After studying waves all the way
from the horizon to the break zone the next step is to start to paddle
and build momentum from the surging swell. Identify a swell on the
horizon, turn your surfboard around and face directly into the beach.
As the swell approaches you should start to paddle, keep looking forward
but also have glances over your shoulder so you know the position
of the wave, when you feel the surging swell lift the surfboard, increase
your paddling speed and power, so you gain momentum and start to surge
forward with the wave. At this time you should push up and surge to
the edge of the break zone where you can look over the edge of the
wave as it start to break. |
| It is important to understand
where the wave will break, you do not want to paddle all the way into
the break zone and into a position where the wave is breaking on top
of you. |
| Surging with waves will teach
you to build your paddling speed to gain momentum and match the speed
of the wave. Timing and positioning is the key to catching green waves
and it is very hard to perfect this until you can feel the surge from
the wave. |
| After you are comfortable identifying waves,
building momentum and surging to the edge of the break zone, the next
step is to paddle on to the wave, stand up, and take the drop. |
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While surging keep paddling a few more strokes than you have been,
when you feel the wave start to steepen (peak) this
is when you should jump to your feet. It is important to take the
wave a little bit further than you have been before standing up, if
you stand up too early the wave will leave you behind. |
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| Once you have jumped to your feet keep your knees bent,
head up and START SURFING! |
| By starting to catch green waves you are progressing
your surfing to a new level, be patient, practice your skills in surf
that suits your ability and always keep working on the basic techniques
i.e. body positioning, paddling and jumping up. These are the platform
to your surfing future. |
