|There are three skills which will
help you paddle through waves and
progress through the break zone.
(1) Pushing Up - used on smaller broken waves or unbroken waves
that are close to
(2) Busting through - used on unbroken waves that have just started
(3) Eskimo Roll - used on bigger broken waves.
|It is important to have good paddling
technique and body positioning on the surfboard (refer stages 1 and
2), you will need to achieve a maximum thrust from each paddle to
gain and keep momentum. The more power you go into a wave with will
help you maintain your position and not be dragged backwards towards
the beach. You must understand that the wave is not going to stop,
by paddling hard and fast into it is your best chance of getting through.
|When paddling through a wave make
sure you approach it with the nose facing directly into the wave,
if you end up sideways or slightly angled the wave will get underneath
your surfboard and force you backwards. While you are in the break
zone and paddling through waves you should keep a forward momentum,
keep the arms paddling, if you get knocked of your surfboard always
climb back on and keep going until you have paddled beyond the breaking
waves. It is then that you can sit, relax and have a rest.
|As mentioned there are three skills
you will need to practice and use, in all skills what you are ideally
trying to achieve is keeping the surfboard flat and horizontal so
it will pierce through the wave. It is when the wave gets underneath
the surfboard that it picks you up and carries you with it towards
|Used on smaller white wash waves or when paddling
over peaking green waves. Similar to the skill practiced back in Stage
(1) of this booklet but now you are paddling through a wave. Paddle
hard and fast directly into the wave, just as the wave hits the nose
of the surfboard, grab the rails next to your chest, push up and and
raise up onto either your knees or toes. It is important to hold your
weight with your upper body and NOT transfer it into your legs.
|Keep the surfboard as horizontal
as you can, once the wave has passed half way down your body you should
lower your chest down and straight away resume paddling and start
to gain forward momentum and prepare for the next wave.
|This skill is used when a green wave has just
peaked and is about to start breaking. Paddle directly up the face
of the wave, as you see the top (lip) of the wave start to break or
crumble grab the rails of your surfboard at the chest line, but, rather
than pushing up, keep your chest on the deck of the surfboard, hold
on tight, elbows up, keep your head tucked in, looking down, and "bust
through" the top of the wave.
|This technique will help you come
out the back of the wave, however you are now in a critical part of
the wave. You must start to paddle immediately after "busting
through" otherwise the wave could suck you back as it starts
|On bigger waves that have more power you will
not be able to "push up" and over or "bust through",
you must roll the surfboard over and attempt to pierce through the
bottom of the wave. This technique requires effort and confidence,
with a properly sized beginner surfboard this technique is your best
chance of progressing through broken waves.
|You should practise this technique on the
beach first before attempting it in the surf. Once again paddle hard
directly towards a broken wave, just before the wave hits the nose
of the surfboard grab the rails, but
this time slightly higher than the chest line (about shoulder height).
Roll the surfboard over and hold it tightly and as a close to your
chest as you can.
|Try and keep the surfboard horizontal, the
wave will pass over the top of the surfboard and then you will come
to the surface out the back of the wave.
|It is important now to flip the
surfboard back over, climb on as quick as you can and then continue
paddling.This technique requires you to use a lot of upper body strength
to keep your body close to the surfboard, at times you may feel you
are wrestling with the wave for control of your surfboard.
|You may see other surfers on short
boards duck diving under waves, although this looks easy it is a more
advanced technique and not suitable for beginner sized surfboards.