Doug, a physics professor,acting like a drunk and shooting lighter
fluid on the barbeque. Doug surfed well, and started acting like a
rowdy surfer by the end of the week. When he returns to academia,
we're sure he'll slip up occassionaly and start addressing his distinguished
collegues as "dude." |
Capt. Mike, a Marine platoon leader, gave us a call to take a surf
camp. On the phone he told us he was 250lbs, so we tried to talk
him out of it. The heavy guys are sometimes difficult to get riding,
and is hell on the instructors' shoulders when pushing the heavy
guys into waves. But Mike really wanted to surf, he had a vacation
he said, and all he wanted to do was surf. We signed him up for
a group lesson with the option to continue in a camp. But Mike did
well, and he really had the surf bug. We were so impressed by his
desire to surf, and by his skill, exceptional for a heavy guy, that
we gave him one of Leucadia Surf School's old boards. So Capt. Mike
decided to surf with Leucadia Surf School, and ended up getting
his first stick. A real beater, but all first surfboards are. Come
back from Baghdad in one piece, Mike, and live to surf some more.
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| ABOVE: Emma & Cecil, two
14 year old friends from Washington, gave me a six pack of beer
in a brown paper bag at the end of a surf camp during the summer
with a note written on the bag. The note on the bag is above.
Thanks, Emma and Cecil! |
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| Emma and Cecil would ride waves
together so they could have cat fights while riding. They even
learned switch stance so they could face each other. Emma, above,
starts to lose the wave, and Cecil is almost riding backwards
so she can face Emma. |
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